The AW/ 15 collection from Jan Si sees a mysterious, seductive woman ensconced in dark hues of rich wool mixed with silky velvets. With inspiration for the colour palette being drawn from theheart-shaped, scalloped viola flowers, there are subtle intricate details adorning swathes of luxurious fabric. The structured lapels reference previous collections with the brand’s penchant for focus on the neckline on full display.
The argyle pattern plays an instrumental part in the construction of the garments as well as in the embellishment. Far from being the pattern associated with golf, Jan Si has used the argyle layers of overlapping motifs to influence a complex series of seams creating three-dimensionality, movement and texture, consequently adding to the delicacy of the silk and velvet fabrics.
Sigita Janelionyte’s knowledge of the technical side of fashion design remains unrivalled in this sleek collection yet she is showcasing a pure, more refined series of garments than in previous seasons. Jan Si has grown up without forgetting her customer; the exquisite detail is there, it’s just shrouded in an air of sophistication.
The SS13 collection, draws heavily on the technique of crochet, meaning ‘hook’ in French, with silk threads being used to create knitwear or piping that adorns the seams of delicate evening dresses. Whilst crochet is more traditionally used with wool yarns, Sigita has opted for silk to continue the opulence of fabric from her last collection. Indeed it took ten metres of silk fabric to create just one top. The cropped leather jackets and shift tops add an edge to the collection to maintain Jan Si’s reputation for understated elegance, yet the mauve tones of the leather with the silk plaiting embellishment ensures the look never strays towards ‘grunge’.
The muted colour palette of the collection guarantees the wearer will feel feminine and flighty without risking their sophistication. Dusty pinks and beiges mix with moody mauves to nod to the softer side of the SS13 trends. Asymmetric hems, wide open necks and leather accents are complimented by a 100% handmade collection that shuns mass production and makes use of natural silk and leather.
Consistently striving to push her immaculate technical skills, Sigita Janelionyte has created a showcase of pure, untainted techniques, brushed with a soft, fairytale-coloured palette and a smattering of tough modernity. A genuine vision of a modern woman who has been allowed to dream.